A pearl in the South China Sea

It is not often that one is presented with a choice of 7,107 islands to go island hopping. And this archipelago in the South China Sea offers much more: tropical rainforests, white sand beaches, the world's longest navigable underground river, Spanish villas and Catholic churches. Mabuhay (welcome) to the Philippines!! By Steena Joy

A tourist's first impression of the Philippines is a unique amalgam of the modern and the historical. As one travels from Manila's Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA) to the city centre eight kms away, tall skyscrapers and expansive shopping malls juggle for space alongside heritage churches and war monuments. One also sees modern cars whizzing past colourful contraptions called Jeepneys, a legacy from the Americans who ruled the island country for 48 years after the Spaniards left.

Embarking on a journey of discovery of the Philippines, you may feel a little like the Portuguese explorer, Ferdinand Magellan who discovered the archipelago in 1521 and named it 'Las Islas Felipinas', after King Philips II of Spain. One can easily identify the many Spanish influences in the island country - from the architecture and the culture to the faith (the Philippines is unique in Asia, because it is the only country where 90 per cent of the population are Christian, thanks to Magellan who converted most of the original Indo Malay inhabitants to Christianity).

Heart and soul

The capital of the Philippines -its heart and soul - is Manila. The city derives its modern name from 'Maynilad', which in Tagalog means 'there is nilad', which is in reference to the flowering mangrove plant that grew on the marshy shores of the bay and used to produce soap for regional trade. Metro Manila sets the archipelago's rhythm and is a pulsating hub that blends the quaint with the modern, the mundane with the extraordinary. In the heart of the city is Intramuros. Built by the Spaniards in the 16th century, it served as the centre of political, military and religious power of the Spaniards during the time that the Philippines was a colony of Spain. Its name, taken from the Latin intra muros, literally means 'within the walls,' and also describes its structure as it is surrounded by thick, high walls and moats.

Inside Intramuros, there are several Roman Catholic churches, like the Manila Cathedral with its detailed stone carvings and stained glass mosaics, the San Augustin Church (a favourite for weddings which are huge and well-planned affairs in the Philippines) and Fort Santiago, the site of torture chambers and dungeons.

San Augustín Church is one of the oldest churches in the Philippines, and the only building left intact after the destruction of Intramuros during the Battle of Manila (1945). The present structure is actually the third to stand on the site and has survived seven major earthquakes, as well as all the wars in Manila. The church has 14 side chapels and a trompe-l'oeil ceiling. Together with three other ancient churches in the country, it was designated as part of the World Heritage Site 'Baroque Churches of the Philippines' in 1993.

Directly south of Intramuros lies Rizal Park where José Rizal, the country's national hero, was executed by the Spaniards on charges of subversion. A monument stands in his honour where Rizal's remains were buried. The big flagpole west of the Rizal Monument is the Kilometer Zero for road distances in the country.

Another famous open space in Manila is the Baywalk. This promenade lies in front of the Manila Bay where one can experience one of the most breathtaking sunsets of the world. While in Manila, try out a trip in the Jeepney, the most popular means of transportation in the Philippines (at seven pesos minimum fare it is also cheap). The vehicle is derived from the GI jeep brought here by the American soldiers during World War II. Every jeepney is done up artistically and detailed artworks (a lot of them with religious themes) are displayed on the shining chrome bodies as well as in the vehicle's interior.

Filipino favourites

The Philippines is a gastronomic hotpot as the Filipinos love food. From the Oriental to the Continental, there is something to suit every palate. And just as Filipinos love food, they also love shopping! Which is why malls are a favourite hang out. Not surprisingly, Asia's biggest shopping mall - SM Mall of Asia - is located in Manila. For those of you who love to do their shopping with the joy of bargaining, there is the Greenhills Shopping Centre, a mecca for those in search of electronics and mobile phones at the most affordable prices. As for leather bags, tourists can find amazing look-alikes of high-end brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Chloe and Versace at eye-popping prices!

Another thing the Filipinos are adept at is, understandably, island hopping. The relative short distance between islands combined with the low cost of the ticket makes it an ideal mode of transportation. Moreover, for tourists, island hopping is attractive because it offers more possibilities to communicate with the local inhabitants. The traditional-type Banoa is the pump-boat normally used for shorter distances. The ferryboat on the other hand is a more comfortable option. There are several companies who have regular trips between the bigger islands. The third type of boat is the fastest - the modern hovercraft known as the SuperCat.

The last frontier

The best way to explore the tropical rainforest in the Philippines is in the island of Palawan. Philippine Airlines, Air Philippines and Cebu Pacific have regular flights to the island. Known as the country's Last Frontier (since it is the farthest point in the Philippines), the province of Palawan is made up of 1768 islands which offer a safe haven for an impressive variety of flora and fauna: 98 bird species, 34 reptiles, 28 mammals, 12 amphibians and 110 arboreal plant species.

In its capital city of Puerto Princesa, what strikes you at first glance is the almost obsessive drive for cleanliness (littering on the streets invokes a heavy fine; vehicles have to be fitted with garbage bins inside). The city's successful eco tourism programs and environment conservation projects have earned it the Hall of Fame Award as the cleanest and greenest component city.

In the city, the strategically located Legend Palawan Hotel offers the ideal jump-off for a unique destination - the 8.2 kilometre underground river that flows beneath the St Paul limestone karst mountain landscape, the world's longest navigable underground river. 81 kilometres from the city into the heart of the rainforests, followed by a15 minute pump boat ride to the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park near Sabang on the west coast, is a sensational adventure. Explore this UNESCO World Heritage site's pitch black interior adorned with the stalactites (hanging from the roof of the cave) and stalagmites (rising from the floor of the cave) using a small paddled outrigger boat equipped with a searchlight. A word of advice: slap on some mosquito repellent before embarking on the boat ride.

On the way back to Puerto Princesa city, stop at the Vietnamese Village which is home to a number of Vietnamese immigrants who first came to Palawan in 1979. Their delectable cuisine is a welcome treat for visitors looking for a taste of Vietnam.

While in Palawan a day trip to the Honda Bay Islands (comprising Snake, Pandan, Arreceffi, Cowrie, Starfish and Senorita islands) is ideal for the thrill of island hopping to explore dozens of white sand beaches, spectacular dive spots and snorkeling sites. Another must-see is the Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Centre (PWRCC) commonly known as the Crocodile Farm which protects endangered species, including the endemic Philippine crocodile. It sits on 10 hectares of land that also houses a small zoo featuring animals indigenous to Palawan and endangered species like the Palawan bear cat. Other attractions of Palawan include Mitra's Ranch (home of former senator Mitra nestled atop a hill overlooking Honda Bay) and also the country's oldest and unique prison without walls, the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm which was established by the Americans in 1904 during the colonial days to supply food to other prisons all over the country. Now as was then, inmates freely live with their families in designated areas and engage in farming, woodcraft and handicrafts.

Cebu

Cebu is where the sweetest mangoes can be found (dried mangoes are a major export of the island) and where Magellan planted the Cross of Christianity (known as Magellan's Cross). The original cross is now encased in a hollow hardwood cross and can be found in a kiosk on Magellan's Street just outside the The Basilica Minor del Santo Niño, which houses the image of the Santo Nino or Infant Jesus which is the oldest religious image in the Philippines. The wooden image, made by Flemish artisans, was brought to the island by Magellan who gave the image Santo Niño to Queen Juana as a baptismal gift. In 1565, most of Cebu was destroyed by a big fire. However, in one of the burned houses, a Spanish soldier found the image of Santo Niño, remarkably unscratched! Since then, the miraculous image has been treated by the Cebuanos as the island's patron saint. The church was built near the place where the Santo Niño was found in the burned house.

The province of Cebu is especially well known because of the production of locally handmade acoustic guitars, bandurrias (Filipino mandolins), banjos and ukuleles. Already for generations the Cebuanos have been making quality guitars. The guitar makers are considered to be among the world's finest craftsmen. Maribago on Mactan island, is the centre of Cebu's guitar-making industry.

Bohol

East of Cebu is Bohol, the tenth largest island in the Philippines. One of the most spectacular landscapes in the Philippines is formed by the Chocolate Hills on this island. The Chocolate Hills have the same shape, but however differ in the altitude. There are about 1,268 of them, almost all reaching a height of 40 metres.

Geologists think that the specific shape of the hills is caused by the influences of the weather during millions of years. The breaking down of the upper layers of the limestone formations, followed by the erosion processes, resulted in these remnants in the shape of cones. In the rainy season the Chocolate Hills are green. In the dry season of each year, the vegetation on the hills gives the landscape a brown coloured view, a reason to call them "Chocolate Hills". Bohol is also home to the smallest primate on earth, the Tarsier. The average size of this little creature is between 90 to 160 mm (3.5 to 6.25 inches). The weight is between 70 to 165 grams. It's sad that, because of a relatively fast deforestation of the tropical rainforests on the Philippine islands, the number of tarsiers has showed a dramatic reduction. Which is why Bohol has set up a foundation to protect the endangered tarsier.

Boracay

Our last stop is Boracay Island, one of the most popular tourist destinations in the country, which boasts of a four-kilometre stretch of white sand beach, considered to be one of the top ten beaches in the world. Some even call it the Miami Beach of the Philippines! For those interested in scuba diving, there are approximately 20 dive centres along the White Sands beach. Along the beach you will be approached frequently by masseurs offering to give you a massage at very affordable charges which they will do on the spot or on a towel laid out on the beach. (You will even find these masseurs in the lounges at the local airports; passengers can get a massage while waiting for their flights! Incredibly, in some of the airports we found blind masseurs who do the job).