Spotlight

The Penguin travellers

For those who want to experience a totally unconventional holiday and escape the summer heat, Antarctica is the place to be. By Ashok B Sharma

Taking a vacation for a well-heeled Indian may mean a trip to Europe with an essential stopover at Amsterdam. Within the country, it could involve a trek to the Himalayas or lazing around in the backwaters of Kerala or a binge in Goa. But for those who want to experience a totally unconventional holiday, Antarctica is the place to be. The icy continent of Antarctica is not only meant for scientists and die-hard adventurers. With its unspoiled panoramic beauty, it is increasingly becoming a tourist hotspot.

Although Antarctic tourism began in the late 1950s, it remained at low levels until the early 1990s when it took off. From a base of 4,698 tourists in the 1990-91 summer, annual numbers rose to 24,281 in the summer of 2003-04, to about 38,000 in 2006-07. This season the number is slated to increase up to 50,000. Industry figures project a continuing increase in tourism numbers through this decade.

Regulated tourism

According to union minister for earth sciences, Kapil Sibal, when the Antarctica Treaty was drafted in 1959, no one conceived that it would become so popular. "The idea is not to discourage tourism, but putting regulations in place," he says. Apprehending possible damage that may be caused to the fragile environment, the 46-nation body responsible for the protection of the icy continent took a decision to regulate tourism in the 30th Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meeting (ATCM) which concluded in Delhi this May.

However, the growing US$ 300 million industry is not worried about the new regulations. It is a niche industry growing gradually and business will run as usual, they say. Says ED of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), Denise Landau, "We have been regulating ourselves all these years so that no damage is caused to the environment. The 30th ATCM has adopted most of our suggestions."

The 30th ATCM urged the national governments not to permit tour operators to carry more than 500 passengers in a vessel. The new law also limits landing of tourists on the shore to 100 at a given time and the guide-to-passenger ratio should be 1:20.

Does India figure?

IAATO set up in 1991 is the apex body and now has 83 tour operators from 13 countries like Australia, US, Germany, Italy, New Zealand, Sweden, UK and France. Some of its major members are Abercrombie & Kent, Adventure Associates, Elegant Cruises, Heritage Expeditions, Holland America Line, Hurtigruten GroupOrion Expedition Cruise, Polar Star Expeditions, Travel Dynamics Int and Zegrahm Expeditions. About 48 vessels and luxury yachts carry tourists every year and IAATO since over a decade has been coordinating in a planned manner.

The booking for the tour is for a minimum of 10 days, which costs around US$ 7,000, to about three weeks. The sea-borne vessels leave for Antarctica from ports located in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and South America, from where it's a two-day travel. From Australia and New Zealand it takes five days, from South Africa it is a week's journey.

The rush of tourists is usually from countries like Australia, US, Netherlands, Chile, Germany, Canada, France, Norway, UK, Russia and Argentina. "Tourists from India are almost negligible," says Landau and adds, "We do not have any tour operator from India as our member, but those willing to tour can tie up with a recognised travel agent for booking."

Underdone Antarctica

IAATO ensures that camp sites are located at least 450 feet away from nesting birds, including penguins. Each campsite is used for no more than a few nights per season. Toilets are ashore and human waste is returned to ship and meals are eaten only on board the ship.

Some travel companies arrange for climbing and kayaking, particularly in the Antarctic Peninsula. Some offer scuba driving. An underwater remotely operated vessel (ROV) is used for educational purpose. Apart from sea-borne tourism, air-supported and 'fly-sail' operations are gradually increasing. In 2006-07 there were about 1,046 passengers who flew and did not land, while about 908 passengers of air flights landed.

The NGO body, Antarctic Southern Ocean Coalition (ASOC), however, has a mixed response to the new tourism regulatory regime. "We wanted to prevent setting up of any tourist infrastructure ashore and stop the use of very large cruise liners," said ASOC senior advisor, Alan D Hemmings.