Issue dated > 16 - 30 November, 2002  
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Patan: Weaving Tradition With Taste

The capital of Gujarat till Ahmed Shah shifted it to Ahmedabad in 1411 AD, Patan is famous for its exquisite silk saris and the magnificent step - well, Rani-ki-vav. An ancient fortified town founded by Vanraj Chavda in 746 AD, the older quarters of this bustling modern town is a labyrinth of interesting streets overlooked by carved balconies and lintels of Muslim havelis, marble domes and canopies of Jain temples.

Patan, which served several Rajput dynasties reached its zenith during the Solanki rule between eight and twelveth centuries. However, except for traces of fortifications and the stunning Rani-Ki-Vav, there is little of its former glory. Built for a Solanki queen, Udaimati in 1050 AD, it is undoubtedly Gujarat’s greatest step-well.

Fact File
Air: Ahmedabad 125 kms
Rail: Patan is a station on the Ahmedabad-Patan line
Road: Regular bus services available from Ahmedabad 125 kms away and from Siddhapur 28 kms away

The deep octagonal well shaft with its wide flights of steps has exquisite figures and foliate designs etched in dark grey stone walls and pillars. It represents the finest of Indian sculpture and architecture. Not one tiny area of stone has been missed by the Silavat masons whose penchant for sculpting voluptuous and shapely maidens has left Rani-ki-vav with almost as many round bosoms and tilted hips as Hindu friezes. Several sun motifs also adorn the well shaft but these are far outnumbered by sculptures of Vishnu in various incarnations.

Equally amazing is the age old traditional art of weaving Patola saris practised only by a handful families, which can be witnessed in Sadvi Wada. Each sari takes from four to six months to embroider and is a complex process. Silk threads are dyed in a set pattern before being woven on a complex loom, and utmost care is taken to ensure complete even tension throughout the cloth. Once the preferred garments of queens and aristocrats each sari is sold at nearly one lakh rupees.

The other sites of interest are Sahastralinga Talav, Khan Sarovar and Hemachandracharya Gyan Museum. The talav is among the many built under the patronage of Siddhraj Jaisinh (1093-1143 AD) and had a thousand Shiv temples on the edge of the tank. While very few of these remaining they give a a feel of the grandeur of the Talav. Khan Sarvorvar is yet another water tank from the Solanki period with stone steps and masonry.

Those interested in Jainism and Indology will find a treasure trove of rare ancient manuscripts in Sanskrit and Prakrit housed in the Hemachanracharya Gyan Mandir, named after the great scholar and grammarian, the first to formulate the grammar of Gujarati language. Patan is also an important centre of Jainism with over 100 Jain temples. Mahavir Swami Derasar in Dhandherwad with exquisitely carved wooden dome is the most important.

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