Nagaland A Tapestry Of Myriad Hues
ET&T Staff /Kolkata

Tucked away in the north-eastern corner of India, Nagaland is a mosaic of everything exotic. Exquisitely picturesque, vibrantly colourful, all lust fertile; Nagaland is often referred to as the ‘Switzerland of the East’. Nagas, the inhabitants of Nagaland, are said to belong to the Indo-Mongoloid stock, a race whose presence was first noted ten centuries before Christ, at the time of the compilation of the Vedas. Their ancestors lived off nature’s abundant gifts. Blessed with sturdy formidable dispositions, Nagas are known for their warm-hearted hospitality. Comprising 16-odd tribes and sub-tribes, the traditional attire of each tribe is in itself, an awe inspiring sight to behold-the multicoloured spears and daos decorated with dyed goat’s hair, the headgear made of finely woven bamboo interlaced with orchid stems, adorned with boar’s teeth and hornbill’s feathers, elephant tusk armlets.

The traditional crafts of Nagaland are unique in design, which shows beyond doubt, the Nagas are lovers of art and craft. Weaving is a traditional art handed down through generations. Each tribe has its own unique designs and colours. Warm and colourful Naga shawls, handwoven shoulder bags, decorative spears, table mats and wood carvings, cane and bamboo works depict, the rich cultural tradition of the Nagas. Nagaland is a vibrant hill state with music in the air. A land of folklore passed down generations through word of mouth.

Music here is an integral part of life. The traditional folk songs, the poetic love songs, gospels, and exquisite classical tunes-it has them all. Apart from the rich, incomparable traditional and cultural heritage that is exclusive, life here is one long festival. Tribal festivals are celebrated seasonally throughout the year, which revolve around an agricultural cycle as traditionally all the Nagas were farmers. The festivals are connected to the agricultural operations, such as, sowing seeds, spring, first crop from the fields, harvest, end of the year, etc. It is during such a time that one gets a glimpse of the past animistic traditions of each tribe, being enacted in their robust best.

The government of Nagaland has identified three traditional festivals of three different tribes in different parts of Nagaland as tourist destinations festivals: Sekrenyi (February 25-27), Monyu (April 1-2) and Moatsu (May 1-3) - apart from the Hornbill festival organised by the state government from December 1-5, every year.

Sekrenyi, the festival of the Angami Nagas, normally falls on the 25th day of the Angami month of Kezei and is also called Phousanyi. It is a festival of purification and revolves around rituals and ceremonies of cleansing, the village pond. It starts will all men, young and old going to the village pond for bathing. At night, the well is cleaned by two youths and to ensure that no one takes water from the cleaned pond, a night vigil is kept by the youths of the village. The next morning all men rise early to bathe in the pond. It is believed that the purified water washes away their diseases, misfortunes and sins. Thereafter begin the festivities.

The Touphema village, which is 39 kilometres from Kohima, has been identified as the festival destination and has been developed by the village council as a tourist village with all ingredients of a traditional Naga village.

Monyu, the festival of the Phom tribe, is celebrated to bid farewell to the outgoing year and heralds the dawn of the New Year. It also marks the end of winter and beginning of spring. The celebration commences with the beating of the log drum with a distinct tune synchronised purposely for the event, known as Lan Nyangshem. It is also the time of prayers and dedication for sprouting of crops that are already sowed. The main feature of Monyu is showering of gifts and the show of affection by male members of the family towards their married daughters and sisters by presenting them the purest rice beer and specially prepared food.

Moatsu festival, the spring festival of the Ao Nagas is celebrated with traditional gaiety. After sowing the seeds in the jhum fields, the Ao tribals celebrate the coming of spring and invoke the weather gods for a plenteous harvest. The festival, celebrated in the month of May, has more to do with merry making unlike other festivals, which have more rites and rituals. Folk dances and songs, indigenous games and tribal chants add colour to the festival. During the festival, Ao tribals invite delegates from other villages and exchange gifts to renew traditional friendship. The Moatsu festival is also celebrated in other Ao villages such as Ungma and Mokokchong. Longkhum celebrates the Tsungremong festival of the Ao’s in first week of August. Longkhum is situated on a hill from where one can have a beautiful view of the snowcapped Himalayan peaks and in Ungma visitors can have a feel of the ambience of a traditional Naga village. As most of the festivals are celebrated in the interiors of the state where it is difficult for tourists and visitors to go, the government evolved the Hornbill festival to showcase all tribal festivals under one roof.

A cultural extravaganza worth a watch, the festival is celebrated during December mirrors the myriad essence of Nagaland-tribal architectural styles, art and handicrafts, folk and contemporary cultural shows, indigenous games and sports and not to forget ethnic Naga cuisines. Much as it is a place with a colourful heritage, Nagaland is adorned with picture-perfect locales, some drenched in natural beauty, some lingering in history or some a blend of tradition and modern. Situated 15 kilometres south of Kohima and standing 3,043 metres high, Japfu Peak is simply out of the world. From November to March, during the dry season when the air is clear, the peak gives an excellent view of Kohima town and of distant snow clad Himalayan peaks. And sprawled majestically behind the peak is the Dzukou Valley like a mown lawn from a distance and is watered by a meandering stream, which often freezes in winter.

In spring, it is rich with wild flowers and pink and white rhododendrons. There are also interesting caves in the low hillocks that cluster inside the valley and is a trekkers’ paradise. And if one looks for a place mingling with history and tradition, there’s a lot to be discovered in Nagaland. The Kohima War Cemetery, dedicated to the memories of the men who fought in the battle of Kohima in which they and their comrades finally halted the invasion of India by the forces of Japan in April 1944. It is beautifully situated on a hill-top overlooking the Kohima town. Here an inscription reads: When you go home tell them of us and say for your tomorrow we gave our today.

Khonoma village is another place that mingles with history. Apart from excellent mountain vistas, waterfalls, orchids and bracken ferns, the pride of the village is its ancient bastion at the highest point in the village. Here, the Naga warriors made their last stand against the British in 1879. A simple white pillar commemorates G H Damant, major C R Crook, lieutenant H H Forbes and sub-major Nurbir Sai, who died fighting the Nagas in Khonoma.

A fascinating place filled with dioramas, Nagaland was formally declared as the 16th state of the Indian Union in December 1963. It is bounded by Assam in the west, Myanmar in the east, Arunachal Pradesh in the north and Manipur in the south. The state consists of seven administrative districts, Kohima - the state capital, Dimapur, Mokokchung, Wokha, Mon, Phek, Tuensang and Zunheboto - each with its own distinctive characteristic, bounded by a unique essence of warmth and togetherness. The tribes, innumerable festivals, rich culture and unique cuisine. Nagaland is a tapestry of myriad hues. Feel the serenity, breathe the fragrance, explore exotic locales and enjoy warm hospitality.